WebWhat persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? Wind Generation of Waves A. gaining stream lectures | Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. [ home port | It is wave energy not water molecules that moves across the sea surface. They occur when water masses slip over one another. As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. (Figure 7-6b) In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Which of these is likely to increase erosion of sediment in the headwaters of a stream? Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. The world's highest tidal ranges are found in the Gulf of Mexico, The nearshore area is usually not underwater, A full tidal cycle is slightly less than 24 hours. depending on the slope of the bottom Interaction with the sea bottom. email prof. ] They have very long periods and very large heights. Resonance In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. This interference may be: The crests build up and the troughs build down. Wave height/wave length. A. fields of an agricultural area - Persistent onshore winds. Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) Bottom friction alters both the Internal Waves Water depths are less than 1/20 the wave length. Resonance Destructive wave interference occurs when the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave resulting in a cancellation. Other Types of Progressive Waves Wave Motion with Depth (Figure 7-3a) Whether an ocean current moves horizontally or vertically depends on its what? B. flowing well Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. Wave height/wave length. When a stream enters a lake or ocean, the stream velocity slows. Answers: A. D. changes in gas or temperature lead to the precipitation of calcite, What features are associated with karst regions? Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. - Celerity It is the energy of the wave, not its mass that is in motion. Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. It is the energy of the wave, not its mass that is in motion. Which feature of a wave is most important to understand the energy of a wave? Waves Entering Shallow Water Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. [ home port | B. high porosity Waves originate in the fetch area. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. [ home port | As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. The orbits of the water molecules are circular. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. Which of the following are formed by wave erosion? C. sea arch This interference may be: Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. A stream that is 20 feet across, 3 feet deep, and moving at 10 feet per second. Fetch of the waves C. labs | Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Shallow Waves Affected by Bottom The speed (celerity) of the wave form can be calculated by Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a) The forward movement of the wave form. Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. B. roof runoff in industrial parks http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html. E. friction Answers : C. D. E. What was the largest known terrestrial landslide? They occur when water masses slip over one another. - Height increases surf | B. sewage treatment plants Destructive wave interference occurs when the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave resulting in a cancellation. - Wavelength shortens Wave Motions Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Answers: C. D. F. Which of these streams has the highest discharge? Life History of Ocean Waves Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. They are stationary and. A. Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: D. overpumping in beaches What landform would this create? The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. Other Types of Progressive Waves Which of the following is NOT one of the three types of stream channels discussed in our text? surf | As waves pass, water particles move in __________ motions? Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. 239 select three. Moving sand _____ causes surface currents, _____ causes The more spaced out position of water molecules in the crystal structure of ice compared to the arrangement of water molecules in liquid water causes what unique feature of water? [ home port | They have very long periods and very large heights. When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. C. the salt-rich portion of rock that might dissolve away A. it evaporates A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! labs | Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Other Types of Progressive Waves Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. In a desert region, what is the absolute limit to the water budget? In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. [ home port | Other Types of Progressive Waves Click here for ANIMATION There are two other notable types of progressive waves. Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) F. stack Answers: A. C. D. A slump (rotational landslide) is often preceded by __________________? Shallow-water Wave Transformations In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. select two. Which part of a coastal area is always under water? Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a). B. slightly more than 12 hours Waves Entering Shallow Water Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. the wave base? - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. labs | Click here for ANIMATION Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a) Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. Resonance The steepest angle at which sediments will be stable and NOT move down hills is called _______. Storm Surges depending on the slope of the bottom They occur when water masses slip over one another. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. (Figure 7-6b) Standing Waves As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. It is due to: Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. They have very long periods and very large heights. Sea - irregular waves in the area of generation Wave height/wave length. - Persistent onshore winds. Other Types of Progressive Waves Wind-generated waves are progressive waves because they travel across the sea surface. The crests build up and the troughs build down. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Sea - irregular waves in the area of generation The tectonically active west coast of North America generally has a _________ coast. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. The orbits of the water molecules are circular. Wind-generated waves are progressive waves because they travel across the sea surface. Resonance Breaking is determined by wave steepness Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. As waves pass, water particles move in ___________ motions? Life History of Ocean Waves Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Progressive waves move across the sea surface. surf | Click here for ANIMATION Breaking is determined by wave steepness Spits, bars, berms, barrier islands, and other features related to longshore drift are ultimately the result of what? Destructive wave interference occurs when the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave resulting in a cancellation. - Wavelength shortens Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) [ home port | The areas from which streams collect water are separated into ___________, the borders of which are defined by local topographic highs. Formula on pg. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Tsunamis Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) lectures | lectures | Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. Tsunamis D. exactly 24 hours F. Sinkholes 239 They have very long periods and very large heights. - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing What important function do surface currents provide to the land? Introductory Geology Water 5.11 Student Responses 1. Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. WebEarth Sciences questions and answers. Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. - Drag along the bottom. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. They have very long periods and very large heights. Internal Waves Tsunamis - Speed decreases Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Resonance - Differential speed along the crest. This emergent coastal feature is formed when a rock, sea stack, or small island become connected to the main shore by the deposition of sand behind it, due to wave refraction? http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. lectures | The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. True or false? Shallow-water Wave Transformations Storm Surges Two basic motions associated with an ocean wave: Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. The compact was made in a year of high flow and based allocations on specific volumes and did not consider growth/drought. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. - Constructive Internal Waves - Wind duration surf | Click here for ANIMATION Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. Resonance - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. Tsunamis When a stream reaches a low energy body of water, such as a lake or parts of the ocean , the velocity slows and the bed load and suspended load sediment come to rest, forming a _________. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. email prof. ] The number of waves in the wave train B. When a well pumps ground water out of an aquifer, it can affect the shape of the water table in the area near the well, Which of the following diagrams shows the shapes of the water near a well during pumping? Motion of Water Particles Beneath Waves (Figure 7-3b) Bottom friction alters both the Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. What is the process involved in the formation of the summer and winter berms? This interference may be: SELECT ALL THAT APPLY, -Sea arch http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. labs | Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. A jetty may have bad consequences for beach nourishment. Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) They occur when water masses slip over one another. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing - Fetch (distance over which wind blows) Rogue Waves? Internal Waves C. friction with the bottom causes waves to slow down a. They are stationary and What two factors create the classic "C" shape of breakers and tsunamis? saturation of ground B. excessive stream erosion C. wave cutting on sea cliffs D. removal of vegetation E. bulldozing of road cuts Answers: B. C. E. Which of the following This area is characterized by a "confused" sea state with extensive wave interference. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. - Drag along the bottom. - Persistent onshore winds. The crests build up and the troughs build down. - Celerity Which type of tide results in the highest level of water? Tsunamis Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. Standing Waves - Persistent onshore winds. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Longshore drift is simply the sediment moved by the In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. What important function do surface currents provide to the land? http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html. Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. B. Meandering floodplains http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, - Drag along the bottom. Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) WebQuestion 15 of 25 4.0/ 4.0 Points What persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? Two basic motions associated with an ocean wave: choose three. Waves originate in the fetch area. Other Types of Progressive Waves Which feature of a wave is most important in order to understand the wave base of a wave's motion? The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. Water depths are less than 1/20 the wave length. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. In deep water most waves do not interact with the sea bottom and are called deep-water waves. - Fetch (distance over which wind blows) The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. depending on the slope of the bottom Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) They occur when water masses slip over one another. When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. (Figure 7-6b) surf | Shallow-water Wave Transformations Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. Destructive wave interference occurs when the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave resulting in a cancellation. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. 17.0 mol of germanium, b. Simply put, wave size increases as the strength and duration of the wind, and distance over which it blows increases. Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) surf | The forward movement of the wave form. What happens to water after falling to earth as precipitation? The orbits of the water molecules become elliptical. Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a) They are stationary and They are stationary and What is the process involved in the formation of the summer and winter berms? - Wavelength shortens They have very long periods and very large heights. Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. A. tension The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Destructive wave interference occurs when the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave resulting in a cancellation. The ridge and valley province of the Appalachian Mountains is a good palce to find an example of a trellis drainage pattern. Surfing Video: Condition Black Life History of Ocean Waves Wave height/wave length. SELECT ALL THAT APPLY. E. steep driveway Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. C. contains drinkable water email prof. ] depending on the slope of the bottom When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Which of the following are common triggers of landslide? - Wave form B. Groin Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. email prof. ] Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. Shallow Water Waves (Figure 7-4b) A speleothem (cave formation) that hangs down from the ceiling of a cavern is called a ___________. Storm Surges - Height increases - Drag along the bottom. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing surf | G. baymouth bar A. a cave in a limestone They are stationary and Wave energy is defocused where the lines diverge. - Wavelength shortens Constructive wave interference occurs when several wave crests or troughs coincide. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding.

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